Pants band sewing machine



P 5, 1932- w. A. FEIGEL ET AL. 1,875,578

PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet l Q N s N fx R" W gwwmtocs P 5, 1932-- w. A. FEIGEL ET AL 7 7 PANTS BAND SEWINGMACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 P 6,1932; w. A. FEIGEL ETAL 1,875,578

' PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet s WM f1.6 v SWMTW Sept. 6, 1932.

W. A. FEIGEL ET AL PANTS BAND SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5Sheets-Sheet 4 gwntozs Sept. 6, 1932. w. A. FEHGEL ET AL PANTS BANDSEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 24, 1928 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 gmntozs I l l I I i!i I I l llllnr In .N n u j: .f n d s Q 3 r (Al r k IIIIJ dxd. r r

F r Q. C n \l/w (Y x Patented Sept. 6, 1932 PATENT: OFFICE 1 UNITEDsTjATEs WILLIAM A. rnrennfor' BOSTON, AND ROBERT n. CARVER, orCAMBRIDGE, massacnnsnr'rs, ASSIGNORS '10 UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY,or CHICAGO,

ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS rAN'rs BAND SEWING MACHINE Theinvention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines andmore particularly to a sewin 'machine for joining a formed pant ban tothe body portion 5 of trousers. An object of the invention is to providea machine of the above type with means for guiding a body fabricand-means for guiding a prefolded stitched pant band so that the foldededge of the lining of the pant band will be laid on top of the bodyfabric while the stiffening strip of the pant band is laid underneaththe body fabric whereby a zigza stitching mechanism may be utilized fororming stitches alternately passin through the folded edge of the liningan over the edge thereof, and also through the stifi'ening strip andbody fabric for joining the parts.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the abovetype with a guiding means for the formed pant band which has completecontrol of the lining stripuso as to direct the same smoothly to the mac'ne.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above tpe wherein the guide for the formed pant and is also provlded with'meansfor folding the edge ofv the lining stri A still further object of theinvention is to provide a machine of the above type with a uide for theformed pant band having an ad justable member for varying the widt ofthe guiding channel.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part behereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings machine embodying the improvements. Fig. 2 is-an endview of the same.

-. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the work support,

plilessure foot and guides used in the mac me.

of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the formed pant band and bodyfabricshowing the manner of guiding the same to the stitching Fig. 1 isa front view of a portion of the Fig. 4 is a sectional View on the line4-4 Application filed October, 24, 1928. Serial No. 314,700.

mechanism, the placing of the parts, and the stitching thereo Fig. 6 isa perspective view of the article as com leted on the machine.

Fig. is a sectionalview showing the parts folded in the manner in whichthey are used in the completed garment.

Fig. 8. is a view of a portion of the work support, the presser. foot,and the guides showing a modified form of guiding device for the formedpant band.

Fig. 9 is a sectional view through the uide for the formed pantbandtaken longitudinally thereof on the line 9*9. a n

Fig. 10 is a plan view'of the formed pant band and the body fabricshowin the-manner of interfoldingthe same by t e guiding mechanism shownin Figs. 8 and 9.

The invention is directed to a sewing machine for joining a formed pantband to the body portions 0 trousers by a single line of .zigzagstitches so that the pant band may be secured to the garment by a singleoperation.

edge is folded so that the fold therein lies so 'alon the edge portionof the stiffening strip 7 but ack from the edge thereof. It is de siredto stitch this formed ant band to the body portion of trousers so t atthe body portion will lie between the lining strip and the stifl'eningstrip and be so positioned therebetween that a line of zigzag stitchesmay be passed alternately into the lining stri adacent the ed e thereofandover the e ge of the lining strip. These zigzag stitches pass throu hthe body fabric and are completel embe ded therein and also throu h thesti fening strip back from the ed e t ereof and are completely embeddedtherem. This roduces a joinin of the formed pant ban to the body portionof the trousers by stitching which closely resembles a hand whip stitch,which joins an'edge portion to a fabric and partlycovers and ornamentstheedge of the strip. V v I 100 The machine for carrying out theinvention includes a zigzag stitching mechanism of the usual type. Thereis a guide for the body fabric which guides said bod fabric so that theneedle will penerate t e body fabric at each stitch. This guide for thebody fabric is shaped so as to provide a guiding space beneath thesame'for the stiffening strip of the pant band. Associated with thisguiding member for the body fabric is a guiding member for the formedpant band. This guiding member in one form of the invention is providedwith a channelwhich receives the facing strip with the edge thereoffolded. The guiding member extends the full width of the facing strip tothe fold therein so that the facing strip is controlled and smoothlydirected to the stitching mechanism. At the outer edgeof the guide forthe pant band there is an opening on the under face thereof and also aguiding wall which directs the stiffening strip entirely beneath theguiding member for the facing strip, although these parts are stitchedtogether at the extreme outer edge thereof. This stiffening strip canthus be led underneath the guiding member for the body fabric. The guideis so positioned relative to the stitching mechanism that the zigzagstitches will pass alternately into and out of the edge of the facingstrip and through the body fabric and stiffening strip at each stitch.

In another form of the invention the guide for the facing strip isprovided with means for infolding the edge of the facing strip and alsowith meanswhich is adjustable for varying the capacity of the guide fordifferent widths of pant bands.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, the invention is shown asapplied to a sewing machine having a work support 1 and an overhangingarm 2 on which is mounted a needle gate 3. A needle bar 4 is mounted forreciprocation in the needle gate and is actuated by means of a needlelever 5 connected to the needle bar by a link 6. The needle bar isprovided with a 'needle 7 Cooperating with this needle beneath the worksupport is the usual form of complemental stitch forming mechanism. Theneedle'gate is vibrated by means of a link 8 connected to a rock shaft 9in the usual manner. The material is held on the work support by apresser foot .10 which is likewise of the usual construction.

Mounted on'the work support 1 is a guiding member 11 for the bodyfabric. This guiding member is secured to the work support by means of ascrew 12. The right hand portion of this guiding member, as viewed inFig. 1, is raised so as to provide a space 13. The extreme right handedge portion of the guiding member at the receiving side thereof is bentupwardly at right angles to form a Fig. 1. Between these plates is achannel 18' through which the facing strip F of the pant band isdirected. The plate 15 is bent downwardly at'19. This downwardly bentportion is spaced from the right hand edge of the plate 16 so that thechannel 18 extends around the edge of the plate 16 and beneath saidplate. The downwardly bent portion 19 is extended as indicated at 19a.underneath and downwardly relative to the plate 16. The stiffening stripis indicated at S in the drawings. The stiffening strip and the facingstrip are joined by a line of stitching s. This is done before the pantband is brought to the machine for stitching it to the body fabric.After these parts are joined, then the facing strip is folded aroundonto the opposite face of the stiffening strip and this forms the pantband which is to be attached tothe body fabric of the trousers.

As shown in Figs. 1 to 5 the facing strip F has its edge portion foldedunderneath as indicated at f. This fold is formed in the facing stripprior to the insertion of the strip in the guide so that the strip withthe folded edgeportion passes through the channel 18. Y The stiffeningstrip S passes underneath the plate 16 and also underneath the guideplate 11. The space 13 is provided to receive the edge portion of thestiffening strip and this allows the stiffening strip to run freelyunderneath this guiding member for the body fabric. I I

The parts of the pant band, positioned as described, are fed throughthis guiding member and directed tothe stitching mechanism. As clearlyshown in Fig. 5 of the drawings, the bodyfabric and the formed pant bandare directed to the stitching mechanism so made through the body fabricand also through the stiffening strip. Thus it is that the pant band issecured to the body fabric with the body fabric lying between the facingstrip and the stifl'ening strip.

In the completed article .the body fabric is folded over the edgeportion S of the stiffening strip as shown in Fig. 7 The'distance thatthe stitches are located below this fold in the body fabric depends uponthe position of thestitches in the stiffening strip and, therefore, itis quite essential that the stitches shall be a predetermined distancefrom the edge of the stiffening strip The edge of the plate 16 lyingbetween the facing str1p and the stiffening stri at the extreme righthand edge portion oft e pant band coperating with the portion 17 joiningthe top plate and said guide plate 16 will guide the pant band so as toproperly position the stiffening strip relative to the body fabric andthe folded edge of the facing strip.

In Fi s. 8, 9, and 10, there is shown a slightly modified form of guidinmeans for the formed pant band. In this orm of the invention the upperplate 15 of the guide for the pant band is bent downwardly and inwardlyand upwardly so as to provide a folding scroll 20 which underturns theedge portion of the facing strip. The plate 16 is secured to theunderneath portion of the folding scroll 20. The plate- 15 at the righthand side of the guide for the pant band is bent downwardly andunderneath the plate 16 as indicated at 21. An extension 22 is carriedby this member 21. Located between the portion 21 and the portion 15 ofthe guiding I plates is an adjustable edge guiding portion 23 which isheld in place by suitable screws 24:, 24: passing through slots 25, 25in the plate;

- 15. The operation of this guide is similar to that described abovewith the additional feature that the edge of the facing strip isunderfolded as it passes through the guide. The advantage of thisunderfolding of the edge portion of the facing strip is that the foldwill be properly positioned relative to the stitching mechansm so as toinsure that the edge of the fold will pass between the extreme throws ofthe needle as it is moved back and forth to form the zigzag stitching.By adjusting the guide'for the outer edge portion of the formed pantband, the capacity of the guide may be readily changed for differentwidths of ant bands. This guide is secured to the wor support bysuitable screws 26, 26.

From the above it will be apparent that a machine has been provided withmeans for directing a bodyfabric and also a formed pant band so thatthey will be properly positioned and directed to a stitching mechanismwhereby a line of zigzag stitches may be passed through the body fabricand stiffening strip and alternately through and over the edge of thefacing strip. Thus it is that the formed pant band may be secured to thebody fabric of the trousers at a single operaparts may be made withoutdeparting from v the spirit of the invention'as set forth in theappended claims. I

Having fully described our invention, what we claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is y 1. In a sewing machine a stitch formingmechanism for forming zigzag stitches, a guide for guiding a body fabricto the stitching mechanism so that the needle at each stitch enters thebody fabric, a guide for guiding a formed pant band so that a foldededge portion of the facing strip is laid on top of the body fabric withthe edge thereof within the limits of the zigzag stitching and so thatthe stiffening strip is laid beneath the body fabric, whereby the needleat each puncture passes through the stiffening strip, said guide for thepant band being provided with means for underfolding the edge of thefacing strip as it is led to the stitching mechanism, said guide for thepant band having means for positionin said stiffening strip so that thestitches Wlll penetrate the same guide for guiding a body fabric to thestitching mechanism so that the needle at each stitch enters the bodyfabric, a guide for guiding a formed ant band so that a folded edgeportion of t e facing str1p is laid on top ofthe body fabric with theedge there-' of within the limits of the zigzag stitching and so thatthe stiffening strip is laid beneath the body fabric, whereby the needleat each puncture passes through the stiffening strip,

said guide for the pant band being provided with means for underfoldingthe edge of the facing strip as it is led to the stitching mechanism,said guide forthe pant band having means for positioning said stiffeningstr1p so that the stitches will penetrate the same at a predetermineddistance from the edge thereof, said guide for the pant band being alsoprovided with adjustable means for varying the capacity of the guide,for pant bands of different widths without varyin the-position of theguide relative to the wor support. I 3. In a sewing machine, a stitchforming mechanism for forming -zigzag stitches, a guide for guiding abodyfabric to the stitching mechanism so that the needle at each stitchenters the body fabric, a uide for guiding a pants band so that a:f0 dededge portion of the facing strip is laid on top of the body fabric withthe edge thereof within the limits of the zigzag stitching and so thatthe stifi'ening strip is laid beneath the body fabric, whereby theneedle at each puncture passes through the stiflening strip, said guidefor the pants band being rovided with means for posltionin said stiening strip so that the stitches wi 1 penetrate the same at apredetermined distance from the edge thereof.

In testimony whereof, we aflix our signatures.

- WILLIAM A. FEIGEL. ROBERT R. CARVER.

